Coat and method



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B. G. OORSER.

GOAT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

No. 364,219. Patented June '7, 1887.

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2 Sheets-Sheet 2.. B. G. (JOBS-ER.

GOAT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

No. 364,219. Patented June 7, 1887.

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N. PETERS. Phmo lilhuglzq UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

BRAOKETP G. OORSER, OF LEBANON, NEW .JHAMPSHIRE.

COAT AND METHOD. OF MAKING THE SAME.

SPECIFICATIONforming part of Letters Patent No. 364,219, dated June 7, 1887.

Application filed July 31, 1886.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, BRAOKET'I G. CORSER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Lebanon,in the county of Grafton and State of New Hampshire, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Art of Making and Cutting Coats; and I do declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

My invention relates to coats such as are worn by workmen, sportsmen, &c'., and by people generally in the mild season, and at all seasons in shops, factories, mills, stores, offices, 850., and which are manufactured from drilling, duck, gingham, canvas, Seersucker, flannel, linen, and other like material; and its objects are to economize material, obviate the use of unnecessary seams, and improve the appearance and durability of the garment. These results are obtained by means hereinafter described and pointed out, some of which can be employed in the manufacture of other articles, as shirts, jumpers, &c.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 represents a piece of cloth of about eightynine inches in length and twenty-eight inches in width reduced approximately to a scale of one-ninth, with the parts necessary to form my improved coat indicated thereon. Fig. 2 represents an improvement in mode of attaching collars. sleeve-pattern. Fig. 4 represents a piece of like width, one hundred and six inches long, with the parts of a coat indicated thereon according to the most economical mode of cutting known to me prior to the present inven tion; Figs. 5 and 6 show a modification of the sleeve-pattern; and Fig. 7 indicates the method of attaching the collar to the coat, it representing a vertical section through the collar and coat at a shoulder-seam, the threads of said seam being shown at-21.

Heretofore coats having a back in one piece (or seamless) have been cut from socalled double-width goods. The pattern, being a half, has been laid upon a double thickness of cloth as a guide in cutting, whereby the whole Fig. 3 indicates an-improved Serial No. 209,696. (No model.)

back has been cut out in once piece, the waste and other pieces being left in duplicate; but

prior to my invention entire backs were not cates the front part of the coat; 10, the upper and 11 the under side of a sleeve; 12, a front facing; 13 13, parts of a collar; 14, a pocket, and 15 a welt for the same, the remaining portions being waste.

In the first figure, which illustrates my im proved manner of laying on patterns for No. 36 coats, there is represented at 1 an entire back. Two side and front pieces made with straight edges on their forward side and wide enough to form a facing by turning down the same are indicated at 2 2. The upper parts of sleeves are shown at 3 3, the under parts of the same at i 4, upper collars at 5 5, under collars at 6 6, and pocket at 7, the rest being waste. The great saving by my invention in respect to waste fragments is made obvious by the drawings, and further description in this direction is unnecessary.

The parts of the coat cut as indicated can readily be put'together by any one of ordinary skill. It, however, may be necessary, in case the neck is too large, to move the shoulderpoint forward about an inch, (more or less,) to reduce the size of the neck, and in such case something should be taken from the lower part of the shoulder-seam, that the seams about the armhole may correspond, or that the parts seamed together on the shoulder may be of equal length.

Another improvement whereby waste of cloth can be obviated in cutting coats of Va rious sizes from goods of different widths relates to the sleeve-pattern and its use. It has been customary to out the upper and lower parts of sleeves of the same relative dimensions, two patterns being employed, and no provision being made to vary their relative width according to particular exigencies for the saving of material. My pattern for the sleeve is provided with longitudinal lines, by means of which the width of the two parts of the sleevecan be relatively varied in an obvious manner, so'that while the size of thecom pleted sleeve will be preserved the position of the seam under the arm and the parts composing the sleeve can be varied according to the cloth to be cut, and the location of the under seam with reference to the upper seam be varied.

Instead of lines extending the whole length of the pattern, figures, notches, or other marks may be used at the ends of the pattern to indicate different divisions of the same, and to be used in locating the under-arm seam. This s1eeve-pattern may also be made in two pieces, each provided with lines, as indicated in Figs. 5 and 6, or otherwise marked. In using these, one part, preferably the larger, is laid upon the cloth so that its straight edge lies along the edge of the cloth; but if there should not be sufficient width to out this part of the pattern of full size it is moved so that any one of the lines parallel to the edge of the pattern lies on or near the edge of the cloth, whereby a piece of cloth which would otherwise be insufficient may be used for cutting out this part of the sleeve. The other part of the sleeve is measured by a correspondingline on the other part of the pattern.

The two parts of the pattern may be conveniently numbered in reverse order, so that if the cloth is cut with a line of, the pattern having aparticular number placed at its edge a similarly-numbered line of the other part of the pattern will be placed at the edge of the cloth in cutting a corresponding part of the sleeve. It is evident that by these means the parts of sleeves may be cut out of different widths of cloth in an economical and convenient manner.

It is also obvious that a considerable saving is effected by cutting the front of the coat and the front facing in one piece. By this method the edge of the pattern for the front facing is left straight, and it can be placed on the edge of the cloth and the whole cut out in one piece, avoiding the cutting of curved lines, as in the old method, and saving in the amount of sewing required.

The particular disposition or arrangement of the parts, as determined by the laying on of the patterns, which is illustrated in Fig. 1, is applicable for garments of size No. 36 or less. For larger sizes the backs are usually cut out along one side of the cloth and the upper part of the sleeve out according to any of the lines in the sleeve-pattern before described from the other side or edge of the cloth. The under part of the sleeveis measured by the part of the pattern which is on the opposite side of said line, and is cut from an edge or side opposite a front piece for the coat.

In very large sizes the under parts of the sleeves may be taken from beside the coatfront and the upper parts from portions of the web farther along.

I have also made an improvement in the sewing on of collars. It has been customary to sew the under side to the coat and then sew the upper side down over this seam, which latter is a difficultoperatiou and usuallyleaves the collar awry'or twisted and deformed by plaits.

I make the outside of the collar a seam larger than the inside and seam both to the coat at the same time, after which the wide part is turned under and seamed, as shown at 20 in Figs. 2 and 7.

When the old method of attaching the collar is used, all the vertical seams run up into the collar and their ends prevent it from turning over or lying down neatly; but my collar turns down smoothly, as all the points at which it turns down are above the ends of the vertical seams, as indicated at 21 and 20.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim,and desire to secure by Letters Patent, 1s

1. The improvement in the 'art of cutting coats, which consists in cutting a front and 'front facing from one side of the web, the up per part of the sleeve from the opposite side adjacent, the entire back'from the body of the web, the under parts of two sleeves from the sides adjacent, and the parts of the collar and pocket-piece from closely adjacent or 1ntermediate parts of the web, whereby the parts of an entire coat may be economically cut from narrow goods, substantially as set forth.

2. The improvement in the art of cutting coats, which consists in cutting a front from the side of aweb, and an entire back from the body of the web by laying thereon patterns of determined relative size, and cutting the upper and under parts of the sleeve from the sides adjacent to the section for the front and back, the relative width of the same being varied by means of a longitudinally-marked pattern, whereby narrow goods of varying widths can be economically cut, substantially as set forth.

3. The pattern in one or more parts for the entire sleeve, provided with longitudinallines or equivalents, as described, for locating the under-arm scam, whereby it is adapted for use in cutting sleeves of a given size, but which may be made of parts having various relative widths, substantially as set forth.

4. A coat provided with a collar composed of upper and under parts, the former being larger than the latter, and each part having a IIS curved edge to correspond to the curve of the neck of the coat, and also provided with a connection between the neck of the coat and the collar'consisting of two seams, the threads of one of which pass through both parts of the collar and the neck of the coat, and the threads of the other of which pass through a fold of the larger part of the collar below the other part and through the neck of the coat, substantially as specified.

5. A coat provided with a collar composed of upper and under parts connected to each other and to the neck of the coat by a seam, the upper part being larger than the under, as specified, said collar having also a connec-' tion with the neck of the coat, consisting of a seam, the threads of which pass through a fold of an overlapping edge of the larger part of the collar and through the neck of the coat above the upper ends of the shoulder-seams of the same, substantially as set forth.

6. The improvement in the art of attaching collars to coats, which consists in, providing parts for the collar of unequal size, sewing said parts to the neck-opening, folding an overlapping edge of the larger part upon itself, and sewing the folded edge of said part to the neck above the shoulder-seam of the coat, substantially as specified.

7. The improvement in.the art of attaching collars to coats, which consists in providing edges, and turning in the overlapping edge of the larger piece and stitching the same to the coatat the neck part thereof, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I alfix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

BRAGKET'I G. CORSER.

Witnesses: STEPHEN E. ROYCE, (J. P. HOGAN. 

